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Frame evaluation

Check for fatal flaws first:
  • Crash Damage
  • Cracks
  • Rust-throughs

Remove all non-frame-specific parts. Leave bottom bracket and headset, and anything weird; internally routed things, oddly sized seatposts and collars.

Loosen the bottom bracket cups to make sure they're not frozen to the frame. If they are, make a note of it and leave them in. If they're not, put them back in anyway.

Make sure the seat post will come out - if it's steel, grease it and put it back in. If it's a decent post, measure the seat tube with the drop gauge and grease the inside.

Check frame alignment. Measure the rear triangle alignment by tying a string from one rear dropout to the other than goes around the headtube and measuring the distance from the seat tube. Measure the derailleur hanger alignment using the Shimano gauge with a true wheel in the rear dropouts. Note any problems.

Measure the frame size:
  • Seat tube and top tube center to center.
  • Rear dropouts, inside face to inside face.
  • Chainstay length, center of spindle to front edge and rear edge of rear dropouts (these don't reflect actual functional chainstay length because of axle-thickness, but are easy to measure). On vertical dropouts, measure to the center of the opening.
  • Measure the seatpost size if you haven't.

Write the sizes onto a tag in this format:

Wheel size (e.g. 700/27"; 26"; 590; etc.

This tag describes a road bike with a 58cm seat tube, 56cm top tube, 120mm rear dropout spacing, 26.8mm seatpost, and 42-45cm chainstay length. If there is anything else notable (such as french BB or other quirks), add it to the tag.

If there are flaws (bent derailleur hanger, misaligned frame, bad rust, serious dings in tubes, frozen BB cups), write them on a long slip of paper and staple it around the head tube. We'd like flawed frames to be easy to spot.

Created by: JSheehan. Last Modification: Monday 01 of February, 2010 20:49:38 UTC by JSheehan.